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 Post subject: pVi Shocker rebuild
PostPosted: Thu Feb 19, 2004 12:26 am 
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Joined: Wed Dec 31, 1969 7:00 pm
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Location: Finleyville, PA (outside the PGH taxes!)
Having some trouble getting a pVi Shocker (pre-smartparts) to work. Got some pictures of the internals posted here: http://www.mcarterbrown.com/cgi-bin/ind ... y&num=4718

If anyone can help (Gravedigger, Matt) please do!

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Bryan "Azzy" Spiegel
www.riversiderenegades.com
[url:3eidvjl2]http://www.PaintBallCity.org[/url:3eidvjl2]


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Feb 19, 2004 3:41 pm 
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i had a shocker and disected it fully many times, i think there is susposed to be a spring on that popet rod(top picture) maybe the spring is suspose to be on that instead of the other thing with the spring in the pic? mine only leaked out the barrel once, i moved the grease around a little and it stopped.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Feb 19, 2004 3:48 pm 
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I think those green holes are to let air out, one is for when the bolt goes forward the other when it goes back? not that sure tho, does your PVI shocker have a hole in the side to let out air where an air assit could be attached if it were a SP shockeR?


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Feb 19, 2004 3:50 pm 
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I think that spring goes on the red o-ring side of that popet in top picture, not sure tho just trying to help I know how annoying that gun can be.....mine worked best at 170 PSI.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Feb 19, 2004 4:12 pm 
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if you had a smart parts shocker, they work differently from the PVI version, Punisher is going to help with making sure all the parts are in the right place.

Thanks for the help :)

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Bryan "Azzy" Spiegel
www.riversiderenegades.com
[url:3eidvjl2]http://www.PaintBallCity.org[/url:3eidvjl2]


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Feb 19, 2004 6:13 pm 
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also found a diagram that may help here: http://www.cet.com/~sbryant/manuals/sma ... manual.pdf


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Feb 20, 2004 12:41 am 
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Thats some interesting stuff, ill bookmark that for helping people out.

Unfortunately, the design in the operation in the gun differs enough where it does not help much, but I do appreciate the effort!

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Bryan "Azzy" Spiegel
www.riversiderenegades.com
[url:3eidvjl2]http://www.PaintBallCity.org[/url:3eidvjl2]


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Feb 21, 2004 7:10 am 
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heh, its the only manuel smart parts has on the net and it doesnt really tell you anything about timing or reg problems with the gun. Tell me how it works when you fix it, the sole reason for getting rid of mine was because it was so much of a gas hog. It litterally took 4X more gas then the average autococker or tippmann. Hopefully the differences will make it more effecient on gas, there is also this thing by evil called the part that helps effecientcy but it probally won't work on your gun.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Feb 21, 2004 11:37 am 
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Nope, its a gas hog.

The problem with it being a gas hog is the fact that it runs around 200 psi. An autococker functions best around 325 to 450 psi (and older ones love full 800 psi CO2). A tippman runs best and usually wont run UNDER 600 psi.

Using lower pressure means you need more volume to propel the paintball, thus, it uses more gas, but at a lower pressure. You will have this in any low pressure gun, like a Matrix, Shocker, Low Pressure (under 200psi) Cocker, Nova, Mayhem, or Assault 80.

Just a fact of physics.

In fact, I think is is WORSE than the Shocker Sport (or 4x4, Turbo, etc.. they are the same gun with different electronics). Plus Mine does not have any adjustments for timing, and has a limit of 6bps.

Granted, other guns can be gas hogs, VM-68's are bad on gas efficiency, as are Air Power Vectors and BE Rainmakers. But thats a story for a different post and a different day.

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Bryan "Azzy" Spiegel
www.riversiderenegades.com
[url:3eidvjl2]http://www.PaintBallCity.org[/url:3eidvjl2]


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Feb 21, 2004 4:55 pm 
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another prob i had with it is despite how people say it has low recoil it seemed to jump a decent amount when recocking the bolt.


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